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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.